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Now that's a kickback! - Printable Version +- Woodnet Forums (https://forums.woodnet.net) +-- Thread: Now that's a kickback! (/showthread.php?tid=4080674) |
Re: Now that's a kickback! - Charles Jackson III - 01-09-2009 Glad you was not hurt, make sure you duck the next time! ![]() Re: Now that's a kickback! - Humanbackhoe - 12-05-2009 Anybody had a kickback lately? Andrew Re: Now that's a kickback! - niki - 12-05-2009 In Europe, most if not all the TS's are Right tilt and the EU OSHA is teaching to work with the right tilt blade but, with a fundamental differences than the American method... 1. Riving knife... 2. Short fence... 3. Low fence... The pic below is from the UK OSHA (SHE) PDF file... ![]() And of course a few picies that I took during bevel cuts...as you can see, I'm using a simple push stick or, the "Strips sled" or the "Vacuum strips sled" (last pic.) Don't try this method with normal Long fence or without a Riving knife... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Regards niki Re: Now that's a kickback! - sgtsprout - 12-05-2009 I am too glad to hear you are fine, minus some feedback that will help yours and MY technique. I am interested about the bevel cuts and blade direction. I currently have 2 saws. 1 with left tilt the other with right tilt. (Right tilt is new) But I have always been apprehensive about using right tilt if I need pressure on the right side. I have always beleived one should keep the digits away from the saw at all times. But there is some conflicting information here. I am by no means an expert or expierenced enough to argue the point. So I have learned some valuable info here myself. I'd love to see more options for feeding though other than the automatic rollers. And if I told my wife the true dangers, I'd have scrapbooking as a hobby. I had a kickback on a small pice, knowing it was likely to happen. Should of stopped myself there. But I was on the side too, and it shot back it hit my basement wall. This was recent and still have not found the piece. Guess what variable was in both equation are common here? A push stick. (Obvioulsy not the only, variable) My was a 90 degree cut and I thought this could kick back using my new push stick cause the lack of latteral control and excessive negative control as the push stick seems that it can help increase the chance of riding up the blade. Re: Now that's a kickback! - Bill_de - 12-05-2009 If a right tilt blade causes some problems when bevel ripping, why not move the fence to the left side of the blade? Re: Now that's a kickback! - SeanG - 12-05-2009 Seems like that'd be a preferred method? Re: Now that's a kickback! - marcb - 12-05-2009 SeanG said: I have a 3 phase saw with a VFD. The unintended benefit of this is that if the VFD is dialed in right it can actually detect some forms of kickback and shut the saw down greatly reducing the amount of potential damage. I say some types because what it detects is the (probably most dangerous) trapped between fence and blade type, not the loose cutoff catches the blade type (which is plenty dangerous in its own right, but typically has less mass. What happens is the motor sucks up extra juice to try and power past the twisting piece and the VFD detects a current spike and shuts down. The piece still kicks but at a greatly reduced power. This is less of a concern with a riving knife, but a traditional splitter the kickback can happen with a low blade before we get to the splitter. Saved my garage door, not even a dent. Re: Now that's a kickback! - Alex Grigoriev - 12-05-2009 Doesn't tilted blade also produce lateral force to the workpiece? If the blade is tilted to the fence, this force will pull the workpiece from the fence, under the blade, thus producing the kickback? For the blade tilted away, the fence will prevent that? Re: Now that's a kickback! - WYWoodworker - 12-05-2009 Glad it was the window & not you! OK - 2 things: 1. Total distance from blade to furthest projectile. 2. Is that a new sig line, or old one? MR ![]() Re: Now that's a kickback! - janus frey - 12-05-2009 Alex Grigoriev said: Probably there is some engineering study out there someplace. All I know is that unless I have something clamped to a sled or a carriage, I need one hand on whatever I'm cutting because it's so tactile. One needs to be able to feel what's going on, and as silly as it may seem to hear; IMO every saw/blade combination has a unique personality that a user has to get used to. Or something. |