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+-- Thread: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector (/showthread.php?tid=6878399)
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Blacky's Boy - 01-15-2015
fredhargis said:
You've got it.....you can get those connectors in smaller packs at any hardware/box stores (I think even Wal Mart has them).
Yeah, great minds think alike.
I was thinking to myself, "What the HELL am I going to do with all those extra connectors?" and decided to buy a smaller pack at the local hardware store.Edit to add:
I just ordered the contactor, wireless remote, and 6x6x4 enclosure. They should all be here within a week or so. Then we'll start building!
Muaw-aw-aw! (insert evil laugh here accompanied by dry washing of hands) I feel like a mad scientist!
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Blacky's Boy - 01-21-2015
Well, all of the components arrived yesterday. Now all I need to do is buy the connectors and some assorted small electrical supplies (connectors and strain reliefs) and we'll be good to go.
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Belle City Woodworking - 01-21-2015
Dom,
Please let us know how it works for you!
Thanks!
John
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Belle City Woodworking - 01-21-2015
Hank,
You are not the man that knows the man -- YOU are the Man!!!
That is outstanding!
John
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Rick_B - 01-21-2015
Hank - what am I missing - (probab ly the obvious
) - I agree cycling the motors is probably not good for them but when I read your description it sounds like opening and closing blast gates has the same effect as a remote - in terms of motor off/on cycles?
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Blacky's Boy - 01-21-2015
Wow, I'm impressed!!! Those look like very well designed blast gates! And super simple to operate.
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Blacky's Boy - 01-21-2015
Hey Fred, how hard would it be to put a manual switch on this box or on a 10' pendant connected to the box?
I'm thinking about the possibility of having a manual override in case the remote gets lost. Since you need to disconnect the magnetic starter at the DC you rally have no way to turn the DC on if you loose the remote. If would have to work independently of the remote and be tied right into the contactor. Got any ideas on that?
I was also thinking of a way to wire an indicator light into the front panel of the enclosure. That way I can tell if it's energized or not from across the shop (yes I know I'd hear the DC come on. But I'm thinking of an indicator if I'm wearing ear protection or as a test for the Remote). I know Amazon sells 200 V indicator lights.
AC 220V Red LED Power Indicator Pilot Single Light Lamp 22mm
Or would you wire them into the 110V line?
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - fredhargis - 01-21-2015
I'm not sure, but that is why you keep a spare remote switch on hand (just change them out). I'm thinking, but do not know, that you actually could a hard wire a circuit to the contactor in addition to the leads from the remote. That circuit would be one a light switch and just wired to the same connectors. If it happened that they were both (remote and switch) turned on I don't believe (but do not know) that it would hurt the coil. I'm thinking it will only draw the current it needs and won't overload....maybe one of the sparkies could chip in on this(?).
Edit in: Dom, I just had 2 more thoughts on this. First look at the receiver that came with your remote, it may have a manual on/off switch on it....some do, some don't. Otherwise, if it's worse case, you could just unplug the lamp cord (coil) from the receiver and plug it into an outlet.
Hank, the gate sequencing you described is what I do, even though I have a remote. I turn it on, and simply move between the gates as needed. In my case, I don't have to worry about which gate I move first. I can close them all (the DC is still running) and open the one I need.
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Rick_B - 01-21-2015
Hank Knight in SC said:
Rick, you are right, opening and closing a blast gate turns the cyclone on and off. If I'm performing one operation, that's what happens. But if I'm switching between two or more machines, I use a different sequence: I open the blast gate for the first operation. When I' done, I leave it open and move to the next machine where I open the second blast gate. The cyclone continues to run. I can either leave the first gate open (my 5hp Clear Vue has plenty of suck for two machines in my small shop); or I can go back and close the first gate to direct all the suction to the second machine. In either case, the cyclone continues to run between operations. The switches are wired parallel, so as long as there is at least one closed magnetic switch in the circuit, the cyclone motor is on. This is no different from using a remote to control the cyclone, but it is different from using machine motor sensors to control the cyclone. I guess you could leave the machine running when you switch operations, but that doesn't strike me as a good practice.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks Hank - makes perfect sense
Re: Remote for 3HP Dust Collector - Alan in little Washington - 01-21-2015
Arguably the best approach is to let the machines control the blast gates (which can be electro-pneumatically or electro-magnetically actuated), and secondarily the DC. That removes the problem with remotes (misplacing), operating the blast gates (manually opening the new one before closing the previous one which can be a pain if the machines are widely separated), and ensures optimum performance (DC only sucks from one machine, the one that is on, though more are possible), etc.