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+-- Thread: hand plane recommendation (/showthread.php?tid=7084286)
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Re: hand plane recommendation - AHill - 08-28-2015
The best type of plane for what you've shown is a low angle block plane. The low angle block excels at trimming end grain. If your drawer sides are proud of the drawer front, then you'll want a bench plane with a cutting angle of around 45 deg. A block plane has the blade bevel up. A classic bench plane (e.g. a Stanley No. 4) has the blade bedded bevel down.
For a block plane, I recommend the Lie-Nielsen No. 60-1/2. It's an adjustable mouth block plane, currently selling at $165. If you want a slightly smaller and less expensive Lie-Nielsen block plane, the LN No. 102 is $115. You give up the adjustable mouth on the 102. Lee Valley has similar (and also excellent) adjustable mouth Veritas Low Angle block at $155, or the Apron Plane at $89. Lee Valley currently is offering free shipping thru Aug 31.
If you anticipate needing a bench plane, a No. 4 is the best choice. Lie-Nielsen sells their No. 4 for $350. A Lee Valley Veritas No. 4 runs $219.
Alternatively, we have members of this forum who rehab vintage Stanley planes and they often sell them on Swap-N-Sell, for considerably less than a new plane. You could post a WTB on S-n-S and see what's available.
Re: hand plane recommendation - Arlin Eastman - 08-28-2015
Tablesawtom has a nice Miller Falls #9 which is the same size as a Bailey #4 for $83 including shipping at the link below. He does a fantastic job at rehabbing them. The plane is the last one on the listing.
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads...amp;sb=5&o=
Arlin
Re: hand plane recommendation - JimReed@Tallahassee - 08-28-2015
Taking down the drawer front is difficult. I would shim the dt from the bottom and fit again until the pins are a little proud. Then I would clamp the drawer (without bottom) in a vise and shave down the pins and side using a LN 62. That is how I have done it in the past. The joint comes out looking great. I think that is how the old timers got their drawer dovetails looking so tight.
Good luck.
Re: hand plane recommendation - Lynford in Reno - 08-29-2015
First off, have you built the XXX that will use the drawer? If so, then the most important part is fitting the drawer front to the frame. If that front fits the hole now and you plane it, then it will have gap-osis. If this is just a practice drawer or you are going to build the XXX to fit the drawer then most any sharp plane with a low angle blade for end grain will work. I have a Lee Valley low angle blade bevel up jack plane and I would use that for the trim held at ~30 degree angle to reduce the angle of attack even more.
Re: hand plane recommendation - Timberwolf - 08-29-2015
Any one of these block planes will do fine..I personally prefer the Stanley #65 low angle Knuckle Cap on the left in the pic.....
http://virginiatoolworks.com/2012/06/27/an-inexplicable-affinity-for-low-angle-block-planes/