Thought I might save myself some research time by asking here. As stated. What was the original saw size for a Stanley #60 miter box? 4" x 24"? , 5 x 26"? Thank you in advance.
My name is Roger Knight and I am Ray's youngest son and I'm using his account to share some sad news.
I understand he was quite active on here at different times over the years, though most recently, he was probably on here liquidating his woodworking tools, fixtures, and paraphernalia. He ultimately had to lay down his woodworking hobby due to his Parkinson's. I appreciate this community and his connection to it will always be special to me as my dad and I spent lots of time together on woodworking projects and classes. Wood, tools, restoring, and building (in the house or the woodshop) were a constant part of my young adult life as well as our adult relationship and I learned most of what I know about using tools and solving problems from him.
I just wanted to share this news and link his obituary for anyone who may have interacted with him here.
This has likely been posted before, but in case you didn't see it and didn't know, you can search FWW's past issues for articles w/o needing to create an account. It came in handy for me yesterday.
Just finished installing rustic grade oak engineered flooring London in the loft of my summer place. Sure looks nice but now I must finish it and need to fill the knot holes and other imperfections common to this low grade of material. Looking for suggestions about what to use to do the filling. Plan to sand the floor and use polyurethane finish.
I need to put in circuits for a tablesaw, bandsaw, and planer, all 5hp. Some people say to put in 40amp/#8, others say 30amp/#10 is fine. The machines will probably be about 40 feet from the panel. What does everyone think?
Hi all.
Due to some medical issues (back related) I want to sell my Grizzly G0771Z and replace it with a SawStop contractor saw for safety reasons. I would like to hear from anyone that has this saw. The base unit fence does not look very good. I have no problem with upgrading but that means having the 36” fence. Space is a major consideration along with having a mobile base. So, my question are:
1.How mobile is this with the 36” fence and how do the table legs move with the saw? The Grizzly is 33” with the bear crawl and works really well. No legs needed. 33” is more than I need.
2.Is the mobile base worth $239? The Grizzly Bear Crawl work really nice.
3.Is that round 30” fence any good?
4.What about dust collection? I have an Oneida mini-Gorilla.
5.Do I really need to upgrade to the cast iron wings or are the stamp aluminum ok?
I’m looking to sell the Grizzly for $850 with the bear crawl mobile base, 2 ZCI’s. one on the saw and one new and I have a built on outfeed table on piano hinges with 2 legs. Is this a fair price. Machine is I think 5 years old and hobby use.
I stored them in my screw drawer, but everytime I pulled to draw out to get some screws, the plastic containers that the ROS pads come in would get jammed/cracked. So I decided to make this. All out of scrap wood. I was hoping to make it for nothing, but when I tried heating up the glazing of an old 6 over 6 window to harvest the glass, the glass cracked. So I went with some plexiglass. Probably safer in the shop in the long run, too. I had to buy the hinges and the dowels I used for the holders so I guess it cost me < $20.
The corners are rabbetted joints. If you look closely you'll see I intended it for 3 shelves (you can see a groove between the top and bottom shelf), but I decided on only 2 shelves. You might be able to make out the 3rd shelf is resting on the top if I ever decide to install it. Thought about doing a french cleat, but it isn't wide enough to span between 2 studs, so on the backside there's a strip glued in running down the middle which give strength and makes up the difference for where the back is let into the sides.
On the holders I made a test one with 3/8" dowels, but that would have been a real tight fit for the ROS paper and the dowels would need to be dead nuts straight and parallel. I opted for 5/16" dowels which are perpendicular to the base and parallel and it gave me a little wiggle room for the pads so I wouldn't be fighting them to get them off of the holders. The dowels are simply glued into the round holders I made. They're sanded flush on the bottom side. The bottom sides are a little rough (guess my circle cutting bit isn't too sharp), but the holders live in the shop and the good side is up so that's all that really matters.
There are extra circles leaning on the top shelf and on top if I ever install the 3rd shelf.
I am getting the roof replaced on my house next week. Current roof has no ridge vent, my attic only has gable vents and 4 box vents on the back side. I have no soffit vents at all.
I have had conflicting recommendations on if I should add a ridge vent. Roofer I have selected based on multiple friends who have used him recommends not to put one in but he will if I want him to.
Based on "the wisdom of the internet" I see lots of reasons not to, however I had several roofers recommend it.
I am leaning towards not but wanted to get the thoughts of the collective wisdom here.