Can't say for sure, but they might be the new 750's. At $40 for the set and the roll, I would buy them.

Never heard of a kitchen hood that would provide it's own form of make up air. From my understanding...it's like a little open widow with a fan in it...pulling your heated/cooled air right along with it. You shouldn't be creating a "vacuum" in your house. Plenty of leaks in a standard home, plus if your home is newer, there is a chance you have an intentional make up air duct already. Another way to look at it...in the winter you would love the heat from the stove...but not the moisture/smells....you only lose out on the heat. But in the summer, don't look at it as losing air conditioned air...but think of the 1000s of BTUs of heat coming off the stove (and moisture) that you don't want IN the house...so it's good to exhaust it. Just need to teach whomever will be operating the hood that it isn't required during all phases of cooking...

Just my $.02

Kevin

I agree with you Arlin I need to repost my SS gift the pics didn't come through.

Generic 4 post planer shelix install instructions

Takes a few hours and if you do your own bearings a puller

the rest is just time...

One note: sometimes you will run into an issue with an odd part not fitting. there are solutions though if you hit a snag people are around who can help

Joe

That four year old battery has a two year warranty so it's a good place to start your diagnostics. Most auto parts stores test batteries for free and they also collect used batteries that are no longer serviceable. I use the Basement Watchdog battery for my application and top off the water every 3-4 months as needed. I have had several of this brand last me eight years before failure.

newer heaters do have condensate pipes, just like air conditioners do-- so you may have a single pipe coming from the AC coil and heater,heading outside, or maybe 2 separate pipes?
Past that, i'm not sure what you're describing-- is the drip happening inside the pipe, or is something dripping outside the pipe--if so, where is it dripping to?

Waterborne finishes do not like being frozen. That will usually destroy the emulsion. The couple tat I have seen frozen looked like curds and whey. AFAIK there is no recovery.

I use a bevel up jointer for the extra mass. The twist is that I've got the bevel set to 45 degrees. I'm not sure if it's the lower mass, but it cuts a bit nicer than a bevel down. Copious amounts of wax for lubrication, of course. I've finished a half dozen in hard maple over the past couple years this way, takes no time at all. The surface is ready off the plane, but I usually scuff for a few seconds with 400 grit and its like glass.

The most important thing is sharp. I shoot end grain sometimes with a bevel at 55, it all works, just takes a bit more arm.

Low angle block planes were originally optimized for planing end grain. You need a blade that's sharper than a teenage girl's tongue, and, even so, it works better on firm hardwoods than on softwoods.

Fred, in my opinion, if the panel for the garage/shop is more than a few feet ( 5 ?, I don't have a code book here ) from the meter you should install a breaker/fuse disconnect switch near the meter, and it should be labeled. This would be good for you as it would give you a means to disconnect the feed to the shop when you want to work on the sub-panel. It is also required for fire protection so that first responders would have a way to disconnect the loads when pulling the meter. I would favor two breakers, one for the house panel, ( if it's not in sight of the meter) and one for the shop panel, both labeled.
Bob