Their products are on my List

It's not bad. Not my favorite, mostly because it didn't sand well for me. Might have been operator error, though. I've done 4 or 5 bowls out of it. It turns nicely when wet, though a little stinky.

Waterborne finishes are often promoted with "poly" in the name as a marketing gimmick. So far I haven't seen any of the high quality waterborne that looked plastic. The problem is that hey will do nothing to change the wood color or accentuate the grain. I like applying them over shellac to pop the grain and adjust color. The two I like are GF 450 and SW A100 Acrylic. The A100 is not quite as clear as the 450 but is a whole lot cheaper. If you don't want to change the woods appearance just use the 450/A100; depending on the wood you may get a slight darkening.

Don't mess with spar varnish! It is a real pain compared to waterborne and unless you use Epifanes (will darken the wood) you will waste your money and time.

I've always used stripper. I think that the finish will dull blades pretty quick. But hopefully someone who has tried it will chip in.

Perhaps artificial limbs, something like that. Looks like its got some plaster on it, so casts maybe? Looks like they think a lot of it, pretty expensive price. I'd go maybe $75, just for the articulating jaw in the front, doesn't look all that stout from the size of the screws. Carvers might find it very useful; luthiers too.

The consensus would say it will work and is slower. It also ties up your drill press for other things. The setup and tare down time is not trivial. If it is all you have and you do not do a lot of mortises, then have at it.

Most would say that if you have a mortiser, then use it.

If it is only a couple, I would use mortise chisels.

I have done my EU2000 generators. Tri-fuel. Propane, NG, gas.

I have little experience to say how efficient on gaseous products it is. Tuning a Propane/NG carb seems rather arcane.

You will also lose 10-20% of output.

generically, the conversion is very simple. I elected to roll my own instead of buying a pre-engineered kit due to the unique fitment issues of the EU2000, which you won't have.

The biggest issue is tuning the fuel/air ratio and that is pretty simple.

I'd probably not leave the gas line live though. I'd keep it turned off until needed and thus, not have auto-start capability. I'm not quite sure I trust the demand regulator to not leak over time.

CA is much much harder and also harder to apply. Hut wax is easy to apply and lasts several years depending on everyday use. I used both and like the ease of hut but like the durability of CA if it will be used daily.

Also CA will take some time to learn to apply correctly. I found thru experience not to apply 10 coats but apply 2 coats then sand and apply 2 more sand to 12000 and call it done.
I found to much CA will cause crazing after 4 years or so.

Good luck and I really look forward to seeing what you make.

Arlin

I don't know this company but chalk paint is a matte finish similar to milk paint.

I am making tests now for refinishing my kitchen cabinets. I am planning on using SealCoat for a primer. I ordered General Finishes "milk paint" which is an imitation milk paint made with modern technology. I applied it to a 6" square of red oak plywood. It took two coats. I applied with a foam brush. The finish was perfect with no brush strokes or runs (I was painting on a flat surface so no runs were expected).

I am going to top coat this with a clear semi-gloss finish (undecided as of now what to use). It scuffs very easily, and as it is black it will show up as a white-ish scuff mark. The clear coat should resolve that issue however.

The problem with this stuff is that it is ungodly expensive. So I went to the Sherwin-Williams store this morning and asked them to color match and sheen match this as closely as possible. They scanned the sample to get the color (perfect). The finish looks slightly shinier, but not an issue as I am going to top coat.

The store only applied to a corner of the test sample for color. Surprisingly (to me) the S-W paint and the GF paint are not compatible. The area where the S-W paint overcoated the GF paint became slightly wrinkled.

When I get home I will test the S-W paint for application. But it costs less than half. The S-W dealer tells me that this is a "one coat" finish, and if that proves true then this will be 1/4 the cost of the GF finish.

This is a first for me so I will do quite a bit of testing before applying the finish. But my initial reaction to the matte finish is that it scuffs very easily and if the chalk paint behaves similarly you might be disappointed with the wear characteristics.

I will report on Monday my findings on the S-W finish. Also I will report on the top coat. I also ordered GF Endurovar which is also ungodly expensive. But my experience with Minwax's waterborne poly was not excellent. I will buy a pint of Deft's waterborne and try that too. I should be able to report on Monday.

Thanks for posting for everyone. I sure hope people here go that need it and look forward to hearing about it.

Arlin